The watch industry's Oscars: Breguet shines at the 2025 GPHG
The Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) 2025, the Oscars of the watch world, has just concluded in style, celebrating the finest craftsmanship and innovation in watchmaking. And the big news? Breguet's triumph with the Aiguille d'Or Grand Prix for the Classique Souscription 2025, marking a stellar year for the brand's 250th anniversary.
The GPHG, despite its imperfections, remains the pinnacle of recognition for watchmakers, even with notable absentees like Patek Philippe and Rolex, and unspoken political tensions. But let's not forget the incredible achievements of this year's nominees and winners, who excelled in a highly competitive field. But here's where it gets controversial—the absence of some major players raises questions about the industry's dynamics.
The ceremony bid farewell to Nick Foulkes, the GPHG jury president for five years, highlighting the impact of individuals in shaping the industry. Greubel Forsey's CEO, Michel Nydegger, acknowledged Meta CEO Mark Zuckerberg's appreciation for mechanical watches, a nod to the traditional craft in a digital age.
A Night of Celebrations:
Aiguille d'Or:
Breguet's Classique Souscription 2025 took the top honor, with CEO Gregory Kissling reminiscing about the brand's rich history. And this is the part most people miss—the blend of tradition and innovation that defines Breguet's success.
Time Only:
Daniel Roth's Extra Plat Rose Gold won in a category spanning diverse price points and designs. Fabrique du Temps' Navas and Barbasini emphasized the challenge and importance of creating a time-only watch.
Men's:
Urban Jürgensen's UJ-2: Double Wheel Natural Escapement stood out in a crowded field, including heavyweights like Chopard and Zenith. The watchmaker, Kari Voutilainen, aimed for a timeless yet modern design, a significant achievement for an independent brand.
Men's Complication:
Bovet 1822's Récital 30 emerged victorious against exceptionally complicated contenders. Its unique approach to world-time, using city rollers and an additional roller for Daylight Saving Time, sets it apart.
Ladies':
The Gérald Genta Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal won the best women's watch, named after the sea urchin-inspired case. A bold statement piece, but is it too bold for everyday wear?
Ladies' Complication:
Chopard's Imperiale Four Seasons won in a highly contested category. Its rotating disc complication displays the seasons, a romantic feature tying the watch to the natural calendar.
Iconic:
Audemars Piguet's Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar won in the iconic category with its new perpetual calendar movement, a complex twist on a classic design.
Tourbillon:
The Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, a remarkable feat of watchmaking, won the tourbillon category. Its thin profile, housing a traditional flying tourbillon and legible time display, is a true marvel.
Chronograph:
Angelus Chronographe Télémètre Yellow Gold impressed at Watches and Wonders and continued its success at the GPHG, a significant win for the brand.
Sports:
Chopard's Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF, a limited edition with an exceptionally sporty design, won in the sports category. Its lightweight ceramicised titanium case and high-frequency movement showcase Chopard's technical prowess.
Jewellery:
Dior Montres' La D de Dior Buisson Couture, a stunning piece with intricate jewelry setting, won the jewelry category, blending fashion and watchmaking.
Petite Aiguille:
M.A.D. Editions' M.A.D.2 Green, priced between CHF 3,000 and CHF 10,000, won for its in-house jumping-hour and trailing-minutes module, appealing to watch enthusiasts.
Challenge:
Dennison's Natural Stone Tiger Eye in Gold won in the under CHF 3,000 category, a popular choice since its release. CEO Stéphane Cheikh thanked Lead Designer Emmanuel Gueit for the retro-cool design.
Mechanical Exception:
Greubel Forsey's Nano Foudroyante, a standout watch of 2025, won for its unique combination of complications in a wearable size. The direct drive of the foudroyante by the tourbillon cage is a technical marvel.
The GPHG 2025 showcased the industry's diversity and excellence. What are your thoughts on the winners? Do you agree with the choices, or do you have other favorites? Let the discussion begin!
